“Do you want to run?” Chrissy asked. “Sure,” I said, as her spunky little grey gelding shot off up the road. El Capitan — the lanky, gaited part-Peruvian Paso gelding I was riding — followed. As we clattered up the hard-packed dirt road, I stood in the Western stirrups and gave him his head. I was on a two-week vacation in Panama and this was my second day riding with Horseback Panama near Santa Fe, 300 kilometres west of Panama City.